Thought to be Nina Ricci for Avon. Have been told this could be Avon of Belleville and not Nina Ricci. I can't say at this point.  2/2010 Update: The NR is most likely not for Nina Ricci.

This mark was found on KJL for Avon Earrings. The earrings are also in an Avon box. Newer [2000] hallmark

1986- 1995 hallmark

"Mark." for Avon - A New Line

Elizabeth Taylor for Avon 1993- 1997

Jose Barerra for Avon 1989 -Mid 1990s

This mark is from a 2007 piece

1945 - 1993? Cincinnati Ohio -B. David company was a small company that produced costume and fine jewelry. Their output was limited.  This company produced a famous crown pin that is a collectors favorite. Follow the link above to visit the B David Gallery to see the crown. Signature Designs: Pretty, high quality rhinestone combinations, dainty jewelry.  Back to top

Founders: Alvin Rice, Robert Rice and Louis Mark-1946 -1957, Providence RI-This was not jewelry produced by McClelland Barclay which is very expensive and will have the full signature as a hallmark. Barclay first used a hallmark in 1948.Signature Designs: Rhinestones in colors [very often blue] set in gold tone metal.  Back to top

Founder (s): McClelland Barclay 1935 - 1943 -Many jewelry sleuths have spent time trying to decipher the connection if any between this maker and Barclay. the confusion begins with the company Rice- Weiner. Rice- Weiner made and stocked costume jewelry for McClelland Barclay and others including Korda. One of the former owners after leaving Rice- Weiner started Barclay. This confusion continued with what some call the deliberate stamping of similar hallmarks on both companies jewelry. McClelland Barclay was more than a jewelry designer. He was an esteemed painter and an illustrator. He was born in St. Louis, Missouri in the late 1800s. He studied at several art schools and went on to have his work featured in several magazines. During the 1920s and the 1930s he became world famous for his Art Deco jewelry. In 1943, while aboard a ship during WWII, he lost his life.  His fine creations live on! The jewelry is rare. He worked in sterling during 1942 and 1943.  The hallmark never appeared on a raised plaque. Techniques/Signature Looks:  Sculptural Art Deco jewelry, sterling silver.   Back to top

1950s - 1970s? -This is a little sketchy. I have read that the name Beau Jewels was used by Bowman Foster. This mark should not be confused with pieces marked Beau Sterling/Beaucraft. Beau Jewels only signed the earrings when they were part of a set. Signature Designs: Pretty color combinations, large brooches, filigree and rivet construction. Back to top

Beau Sterling  [Aka Beaucraft]

1944-? Providence RI.  As of 2004 they were still in business. I goggled their web site and their domain is not registered any longer.  I believe they are not in business at this time and I have read that they sold their molds! Trademark- BEAU-Producers of sterling silver jewelry. Signature Designs: Quality sterling jewelry.  Back to top

Founder (s): Herbert & Pohs, Inc., New York City. In operation from 1946 to 1979 -The company had a Providence R.I. office. Their medium to high quality costume jewelry sold at stores such as Lord & Taylor. Signature Designs: Known for their "real" looking costume jewelry. Medium to high quality costume jewelry.  Back to top

Les Bernard

Founder [s]/Owner [s]: Bernard Shapiro and Lester Joy ~ Early 1960s- 1996 -The trademark Les Bernard is a combination of the founders names. Bernard Shapiro is the son of another well known costume jewelry maker, Harold Shapiro founder of Vogue Jewelry Company. Their pieces were innovative, utilizing techniques not seen before in costume jewelry. Les Bernard made jewelry for others. Materials and techniques included: Quality pieces using techniques not tried before such as the setting of flat backed marcasites and rhinestones in the same item. Combining different shapes and stones. Sterling. The use of fabric, crystal and enamel. Back to top

Founder (s): Chicago IL, USA ~1930s - 1950s- As you can see by the above dates, the company was not in business for long. A showroom was opened in Chicago in the early 1940s on the second floor of the Merchandise Mart according to an ad shown in the book A Tribute to America by Carla and Roberto Brunialti. At least one piece of Block jewelry was designed by Sandor Goldberger. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Quality pieces made with top of the line rhinestones. Enamel pieces, plastic.  Back to top

Founder (s): Henry and Yvette Bogoff founded the Spear Novelty Company, Chicago, IL in the 1920s. They produced buttons and other items. Jewels by Bogoff began in 1946 to the 1960s -Together Henry and Yvette ran a successful jewelry company that was able to compete with other premier jewelry companies of the day. After Henry died the company was moved to New York. Copyright symbols do not appear on Bogoff jewelry. Signature Designs: Distinctive chain, rhodium finished metal, silver tone metal, small rhinestones, pave set stones, leaf designs.  Back to top

Founder (s): Marcel Boucher 1937 -1971

Marcel Boucher got his training from the best! He trained with Cartier while living in his birthplace of France.  He then went to work for Mazer Brothers before deciding to open his own company. Marcel married his assistant Sandra Semensohn. Sandra designed watches for Marcel Boucher. She continued to run the company after his death in 1965. She also designed jewelry and was issued several patents. Eventually the company became a subsidiary of Dovorn Industry a watch maker. 

Design numbers accompanied the hallmarks on most Boucher costume jewelry. These numbers while helpful in trying to identify a date for your Boucher piece, they are not etched in stone.

Some Boucher hallmarks include: MB, Marcel Boucher, Marboux, Boucher, Parisina [used for sterling made in Mexico] and Earrite.  MB is one of the earliest marks. Usually this mark was accompanied by the Phrygian Cap. This mark is taken from the helmet worn by the French during the Revolution. There is some diverging opinions on when this mark was used. I have seen the following dates. 1944- 1949 and 1937- 1949.

Another mark is "Sterling" accompanying the MB mark.  The dates for this mark that I have seen are 1942- 1944.Signature Designs: Quality rhinestones, 3D birds that appear to be flying!  

FLOWER OF THE MONTH PIECES:

JAN: Carnation

Feb: Violets

March: Jonquil

April: Pansy

May: Lilly of the Valley

June: Rose

July: Lilium

August: Gladiolus

September: Dahlia

October: Orchid

November: Mum

December: Daffodil

Back to top

Phrygian Cap and Sterling Mark

These dates are approximations.

Marboux hallmark

Parisina hallmark

Founder (s): 1960s - 1970s -Very little is known about this company. I love a good mystery so I will keep trying to find out what I can and post it here. It is thought that this costume jewelry was made during the 1960s and the 1970s. The pin below is an good example of some of the pieces I have seen. Signature Designs: Christmas tree pins, gold tone metal, and wire work.  Back to top

Founder (s): Benny [B] Steinberg, Hy Slovitt [S] and Kaslo [K] - New York City-1948 to the early 1980s-BSK manufactured mid-quality costume jewelry that was sold in department stores. Their jewelry is easy to find on the market. There is limited information about this company. Signature Designs: Interesting gold -tone and gold plated designs. Average quality jewelry with enameling and rhinestones. Nice color combinations. Produced a line of enamel and rhinestone jewelry called "My Fair Lady".   Back to top

Laurel Burch

Founder (s): Dan Stoenescu [previously thought to be Staneslieu. Thanks to Nancy Rossbacher for this information found in Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry magazine, Vol. 19, No3. 2009 on page 3.] and Steve Brody, 1954 into the 1980s, NYC-Not a lot is known about this company. Steve Brody was an Broadway actor. His partner was of Romanian decent and their jewelry often reflected that bold style coupled with the glitz of Hollywood. This is high end costume jewelry that has been said to look real. Some say it rivals the beauty of fine jewelry. Their enameled Christmas trees and other holiday jewelry are highly collectable as is most of this Hollywood inspired jewelry. Signature Designs: Hand crafted jewelry. Big and bold jewelry utilizing exemplary materials from all over the world. Based upon movie star jewelry and popular with the "jet set". Glamorous!  Back to top

Founder (s): Providence RI, USA 1936 or 1937 - the 1980s -This company made sterling silver, gold over sterling and gold filled jewelry. They also manufactured 14k gold chains at some point. Most of the jewelry manufactured was dainty, but well made and of innovative design. Rhinestones were used in some of the designs. There is a great article on Carl- Art in the publication Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry, Vol.15, NO3, 2005. This article was written by Cheri Van Hoover who is also a fellow member of the Jewel Collect forum. Signature Designs: Sterling, gold over sterling retro looks, dainty. Back to top

Founder (s): Hattie Carnegie 1919 - 1970s- Hattie Carnegie was another fashion designer that made their way in the costume jewelry business. Born in Vienna in 1886, she came to the United States with her parents when she was a child. In 1918 she opened her fashion house in New York City. It was called Hattie Carnegie, Inc. Like Schiaparelli, Chanel and others she began to market jewelry she thought would look good with the outfits she designed. Her costume jewelry was a favorite amongst the actresses and socialites of the day. It was sold in some of the department stores. Carnegie jewelry was/is expensive and very well made. Signature Designs:  Oriental figurals, animals, rhinestone jewelry, and costume jewelry with Greek inspired motifs. Back to top

Founder (s): Clifford Burst and Joseph Bobley in New York City. 1918 - 1977 -The first use of the Castlecliff mark was in 1941. They also used Sterling Castlecliff and, Castlemark and Cassandra as hallmarks. Their jewelry was well made and sold in better department stores. In the 70s Castlecliff became part of Carnegie Industries Co. In the 80s the company became part of Lucien Piccard Industries. Signature Designs: Intricate designs reflective of history. Gothic, Art Deco and Renaissance in styling. Back to top

Founder (s): Unclear ownership. New York City, NY, USA.  Possible dates of operation are 1950s - 1970s -Another costume jewelry company where the information available is sparse. It is widely believed that Celebrity costume jewelry was sold through house parties much like Sarah Coventry jewelry. It is possible to see unmarked pieces as some where marked only with a paper hang-tag and if a set, only one piece would be marked. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Silver and gold- tone jewelry, some rhinestone jewelry, mixed quality range. Back to top

Hallmarks:

The above says Celebrity NY

Celebrity

Celebrity©

Celebrity on a Plaque

Founder (s): Charel Jewelry Co., Inc., Brooklyn NY, USA, around 1945-It is not known when this company ceased operations. The jewelry is relatively rare and of medium quality. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Colored plastics including Thermoplastic  jewelry, Art Moderne influences. Back to top

Ciner

Owner and Designer: Founded by Emanuel Ciner in 1892- The company began making costume jewelry in 1931. It originally produced fine jewelry. Their jewelry has the look of real jewelry. Ciner costume jewelry is often referred to as the "Tiffany" of costume jewelry. Ciner costume jewelry is worn and loved by many including the rich and famous. Still in business. Materials and techniques included: Real looking faux pearls from Japan, high quality material including rhinestones. Seed turquoise beads set mostly in gold tone metal. Back to top

Founder (s): Guglielmo Cini, Boston, MA, USA 1922-Guglielmo Cini was originally from Florence, Italy. He immigrated to the United States in 1922. Cini brought with him his talent for crafting jewelry. His early work was crafted in sterling silver and he also created gold plated jewelry. During the 1950s rhinestones began to appear in his work. Some of his clientele were movie stars and his reputation grew as one of the finest master jewelers. The company moved to Laguna Beach, CA in 1957, Cini died in 1979, however his wife an an apprentice named Felipe Mendoza continued the business.  I have read that between 1970 and 1993 the company stopped producing jewelry and then started up again in 1993. Cini jewelry is not always signed, however once you become familiar with his style it is easy to recognize the pieces.  Signature Designs/Techniques:  Sterling silver and gold- plated jewelry. Handmade jewelry. Reproductions of antique pieces, classical look jewelry, repoussé, filigree and 3-D jewelry.  Back to top

Founder (s): Possibly the Premier Jewelry Co., Inc., New York City, NY, USA- Claudette is thought to be the trademark of the Premier Jewelry Company and it was first used in 1945.  It is not clear when this company ceased operations. Costume jewelry with the Claudette mark is rare. The rhinestone jewelry is usually well made. This company also produced plastic jewelry. The plastic jewelry is more available in the marketplace. Some of this jewelry is marked with a paper hang tag. Signature Designs/Techniques:  High quality rhinestone jewelry, thermo- plastic jewelry. Interesting shapes and colors.  Back to top

Gene Verrecchia was the head designer and responsible for such designs as the very popular "Coro Duettes". The company used many trade/hallmarks. Of note are Francois, Corocraft and Vendome, all were Coro's top of the line output. Coro Craft was introduced in 1937 and Vendome in 1944.  Coro jewelry could be found at many price points. The Coro Mexico line was produced at a taller owned by Hector Aquilar during the years 1943 to 1950. The company was purchased by The Richton International Corporation in 1957 and closed its doors in 1979. Designed and patented the interlocking mechanism for the "Coro Duettes" pins/clips and The "Quivering Camellia" line. Known for figurals and Jelly Bellies, floral and foliate as well as patriotic motifs. Materials used were diverse. Rhinestones, seed pearls, sterling silver, Lucite and so much more!  Back to top

Coro Pegasus Hangtag

Francois Hallmark was first used in the late 1930s. This was Coro's first high- end line.  

Founder (s): Charles H. Stuart as Sarah Coventry, Inc. Newark NJ, USA ~ 1949- 1984 and again in the early 2000s to Present -Charles H. Stuart founded the Emmons Jewelers, Inc prior to founding Sarah Coventry, Inc. He named the former after his wife. He named the latter after his granddaughter. The jewelry was not sold at department stores, but rather in the home at parties. This was a wonderfully ingenious idea as it was just after WWII and woman were looking for not only income, but to keep up with the trend towards accessories. The jewelry for men and women was designed by outside companies in a variety of styles. Some of the jewelry had Victorian influences, some were exceptionally well made and most were not originally low in price. The company became the largest distributor of costume jewelry and remained so until a change of ownership and the waning popularity of the home party method of sales. Sarah Coventry catalogues are popular as they show the names of the pieces and help to date the jewelry. Between the early 1980s and 2002 the jewelry was not being produced. Sarah jewelry began to show up on the internet. In 2003 the jewelry began to be sold at home parties once again. Sarah Coventry jewelry has withstood the test of time.  Some of the pieces are very popular and have a price tag to prove it. The "Blue Lagoon" set [manufactured by DeLizza and Elster] "Midnight Magic" come to mind. Sarah Coventry jewelry was marked in many ways and some were not signed at all. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Varied designs and quality. Very elaborate Victorian looks, geometric Deco looks, simple chains to versatile combination jewelry. From rhinestones to interesting plastic stones. Back to top

Founder (s): Maurice J. Dalsheim, New York City, NY, USA ~ Late 1930s - 1978? - Founded as the Dalsheim Accessories Company. The company produced costume jewelry, however it is very rare. Most of the pieces were unsigned and marked only by a hangtag. Dalsheim costume jewelry was made with a variety of materials mostly seed pearls, plastic beads and glass. Due to the amount of unsigned Dalsheim costume jewelry and the great difficulty in attributing, this jewelry is not extensively collected. I have seen varying dates for the companies closure. Techniques:  Seed pearl necklaces, some rhinestones, glass and plastic. In 1951 there was an advertisement in Vogue for one of their "Bone" necklaces.   Back to top

 and Dalsheim©

White Jet

Paper hang tags

Founders/Owners: Victor Primavera ~1930s to present. Providence RI- Danecraft was first called Felch & Company. The "Felch" in the name being James Felch who some have said co-founded the company with Victor Primavera Sr. In 1945 Victor changed the name of the company to Danecraft after buying out James Felch. Victor's son Victor Primavera III came on board as did his daughter Gail. The company is still a family run business. Danecraft promoted their jewelry to better department stores.  Have current website and their jewelry is being sold at many department stores.  Materials and techniques included: Sterling silver, vermeil. Jewelry that looks Scandinavian in design. Neat figurals. Back to top

Founder (s): Sol Finkelstein as the Deja Costume Jewelry Company, New York, NY, USA ~ 1939 - 1953 - This company had an interesting history as far as the name was concerned. Shortly after opening a company called Du Jay, Inc., accused Deja of infringement on their name copyright forcing Sol to change the name of his company to Reja. The company produced high quality costume jewelry that is considered highly collectable. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Creative designs, mask pins, florals and figural pins. Pot metal pieces with high quality rhinestones.  Back to top

Founder (s): William de Lillo and Robert Clark New York, NY USA ~ 1967- unknown- This company founded as the House of William de Lillo, Ltd., was only in business for a brief period of time therefore the costume jewelry produced is rare in today's market. William de Lillo was an immigrant from Belgium. Robert Clark worked at Miriam Haskell and was her chief designer during the 1960s.  Clark had previously worked at Harry Winston and Tiffany's. Known for innovative and very high quality jewelry made from the best materials including Swarovski rhinestones. At some point a line of men's jewelry and accessories was designed and manufactured. Back to top

Click the image for the bigger view.

An example of "puddling". Click the image for the bigger view.

An Example the Five Link Construction

Kite Shaped Stones

Founder [s]/Owner [s]: Robert DeMario 1945 - 1960s ~ New York City - Robert DeMario worked for many of the New York jewelry companies of his day before striking out on his own. He did not work for Miriam Haskell, however, some DeMario jewelry has a Haskell like look. It seems that along with Eugene and Stanley Hagler, information about their work at Haskell is false. DeMario had very high standards and it showed in his pieces. It seems he might have created some pieces for Hagler. It is also known that a collaboration between the two during the 1960s never happened. His jewelry became recognized for it's superior craftsmanship and the boldness of his designs. DeMario vintage jewelry is highly collectable and commands very high prices. Materials and techniques included: Similar design and techniques as Miriam Haskell. Layered and sewn beading, filigree backings, seed pearls and leaves that were intertwined. Very detailed clasps.  Back to top

Founder (s): Jerry De Nicola 1957 - Early 1970s ~ New York City, NY USA -Jerry DeNicola produced jewelry of high quality meant to rival the real thing. As a matter of fact, one of the early costume jewelry lines was called "The Real Thing". Now if that did not state the companies intentions nothing would have! Another line was called "Young America".  This mark was first used in 1964. During the 1970s, the company became a part of Capri jewelry and the DeNicola hallmark was not used. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Bold, large and colorful jewelry that looks close to "real".  Figurals and astrological jewelry as well as Christmas jewelry. According to several costume jewelry books, this jewelry is highly collectable with prices to reflect the demand and not so plentiful supply.     Back to top

Founder (s): Ralph DeRosa, 1935 - 1970 ~ New York, NY, USA -DeRosa costume jewelry is exceptional in quality and design. The jewelry was often unmarked or marked only with paper hang tags. DeRosa signed jewelry is therefore rare and will command high prices. When a piece of DeRosa costume jewelry is signed, the mark could be difficult to read due to age and wear. This company was a family run operation. When Ralph DeRosa died in the early 1940s, his wife and his daughters continued to run the company. DeRosa manufactured jewelry for many companies including Elsa Schiaparelli. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Heavy floral brooches with rhinestones and or enameling. Combinations of simulated pearls and rhinestones. Unusual designs and choice of stones. Sterling vermeil. Back to top

Also: DeRosa imprinted in script, DeRosa Designed Jewels and RdeRosa

Founded as: Jewel Creations, Newark, New Jersey, USA ~ 1952-1997- Jewelry by this company, especially the Christmas jewelry was sometimes produced using kits that sold to aspiring jewelry crafters. The costume jewelry actually manufactured by the company is usually of high quality and is not abundant. Sometimes the hallmark on this costume jewelry cannot be easily read. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Glued in rhinestones of higher quality. Cute figurals. Multicolored stones and cabochons.  Back to top

Also: Dodds or Doddz

Founder (s): Dominique  ?- Present [Contemporary Designer] - Dominique has been designing jewelry for many years, however just began signing his jewelry in 1991. His work has been copied and I suppose that is a form of flattery. Nothing can compare to the real thing! Dominique designed jewelry for Weiss and Eisenberg. He is not producing that much jewelry these days and his jewelry is beginning to become highly sought out. Signature Designs: High quality rhinestones, staggering beauty, runway jewelry. Back to top

Duri

Found on Finger Ring

Founders: Stephen Dweck ~ New York City- Stephen Dweck is a much respected contemporary jewelry designer. He studied sculpture and painting in New York City. He launched his first line in 1981 at Bergdorf Goodman and it was all uphill from there. He was soon designing jewelry for high profile fashion designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Escada and Donna Karan. His unique costume jewelry also made it into fashion magazines and is on permanent display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. I have found Stephen Dweck sterling and diamond jewelry selling on QVC.  Signature Designs: Natural stones, gold and sterling jewelry.  Jewelry that incorporates nature and art. Men's jewelry, belts and china. Back to top

Atlanta, GA ~ Early 1980s to present. Has current website.  Mark creates hand- made organic jewelry for both men and women. He has been mentioned as the new “Designer to the Stars”. Courtney Cox and Vanessa Williams amongst others love his jewels. Recently introduced a line of “Green” jewelry called “Ecovintage”.  Several ladies from the View television program have worn pieces from the Ecovintage line on air. See the promotional ad from Mark Edge below.

The following appeared in the ASSOCIATION FOR THE STUDY OF JEWELRY & RELATED ARTS [ASJRA] Newsletter Dated 11/25/2008

NEW ECO-FRIENDLY JEWELRY LINE

Jewelry designer Mark Edge is offering a new eco-friendly jewelry line titled, “ecovintage.”  These one-of-a-kind pieces are deceptive in their simplicity and use reclaimed metals and woods, old stock chains and fittings, and vintage crystals.  The line for both men and women, consists of necklaces, earrings, and bracelets and “uses environmental conscious materials, pushing them beyond their conventional uses for a collection that speaks to the sustainable, ‘less is more,’ fashion of today”, said a company spokesperson.

During the recent eco-renovation of his turn-of-the-century Atlanta home, Edge found himself inspired by the tarnished brass and dark stained trim used in the home’s original detailing. For Edge, reinventing these elements became the foundation of ecovintage.  Just as his house went from old to new, he gives old charms, pendants, and crystals an updated look by pairing them with silver and gold metals.

“Vintage jewelry lines have the potential to look old and worn out, but I melded the old and new to create a fresh look,” says Edge.  “I designed my home to last for the next 100 years and have done the same with the ecovintage collection. Both are timeless and elegant. More and more people are walking the talk when it comes to saving the planet and ecovintage lets them do that in style.” Back to top

Founder (s): Jonas Eisenberg, Chicago IL, USA  ~ 1914 - Present -Jonas Eisenberg was originally from Austria. He came to the United States in the late 1880s and soon opened a women's clothing firm. In 1914 Jonas's sons took over the clothing business. Prior to 1927, the fashions were not created by the Eisenberg company, rather the designs were "jobbed" out to others. In 1927 the company began to not only design, but also manufacture the clothing. Eisenberg Original was born. Like many others, Eisenberg complimented his fashions with beautiful accessories. The accessories, brooches early on, were made by others companies. They were crafted with the best Swarovski rhinestones and soon became very noticed! The son's noticed also and during the 1930s production and marketing of Eisenberg jewelry began in earnest. Early on the jewelry was not signed as it was only meant to compliment the clothing. Also the early costume jewelry produced by the company for sale was marketed separately from the clothing. In the late 1930s this all changed. The jewelry of these years was marked Eisenberg Original. In the early to mid 1940s the jewelry was marketed under the name Eisenberg Ice which became the official trademark of the company. During WWII, Eisenberg jewelry was produced in sterling silver. Several marks were used and some are listed or shown below. In the 1970s the Eisenberg company produced a line of enamel jewelry designed by well known artists of the time. See pin below. Eisenberg jewelry, especially the older pieces are sought out by collectors and rightfully command high prices. Signature Designs/Techniques:  The best of the best in terms of quality and sparkle. Pavé set ribbon or icing.

The two marks above were found on the same piece. 

1970s

1942-1945

Founder (s): Charles H. Stuart as Emmons Jewelers, Inc. ~ 1949- 1981 -Like Sarah Coventry, this jewelry was sold at home parties. These parties had become very popular beginning in the 1950s.  Acting as a distributor, Emmons soon become one of the major players in the costume jewelry industry. Because Emmons jewelry was designed and made by others, looks and quality will vary. Back to top

Also: Emmons and Emmolite starting in 1955

Founder (s):  Evans Case Company- North Attleboro, MA, USA ~ 1920s - This company not only produced costume jewelry but also produced accessories such as cigarette cases, compacts and lighters. Their guilloche enameled compacts and cases are some of the most beautiful on the market. Their early costume jewelry was often enameled and some was done in pastels. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Enameling, pastels colors, gold plated metal and jewelry with a Czech look. Back to top

Evans 

Florenza

Founder (s): Dan Kasoff - New York City, NY, USA ~ Late 1940s - 1982 -Dan worked at the Speier Costume Jewelry Company for several years where he learned his craft. He left to open his own costume jewelry company. His son Larry worked at the company in several capacities. The name Florenza [after his wife Florence] was first used in the late 1940s or the early 1950s, however this company was producing costume jewelry under the name The Dan Kasoff Company prior to this. This company not only manufactured jewelry for themselves, they designed and manufactured jewelry for many other companies. Florenza jewelry is distinctive and has an antique look. It quite often resembles Victorian jewelry, especially the pieces that utilize filigree. As of this writing, Florenza jewelry is undervalued and under appreciated in the costume jewelry market. This company also produced accessories for cosmetics firms such as trinket and pill boxes. These were usually ornate. very well made and like the jewelry, an interesting combination of stones was used. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Very well made costume jewelry. Beautiful metal work, usually in antiqued gold- tone. High quality materials. Vanity accessories. Back to top

Freirich

Founder (s):  Solomon Freirich, France ~ 1900s [I have also seen the date 1920 as the start- up date].  The company seems to have closed in 1990. This company could have been placed in either the American or European section as it had businesses in both the United States and in France. The original name of this firm was Maison David and they manufactured accessories only until around 1955 when they began to produce costume jewelry. The 1955 date is a best guess. In 1922, Mr. Freirich purchased the company and changed the name in the United States. Known for the buttons they made for Christian Dior and Chanel and for their antique look jewelry. In fact, their pieces are such good representations of Victorian jewelry; some has been mistaken for it.  Hallmarks were not used until the 1960s so the unsigned pieces were being attributed to the wrong period. Techniques/Materials:  Very high quality materials. Handmade. Filigree work. Victorian, antique look. Back to top

Founder (s):  Geraldine Giles as Gerry's Creations ~ 1950s - either 1996 or the early 2000s [I have seen both dates several times while researching this company]. New York City, NY, USA-There is very little information available about this company, however it seems they must have produced a lot of jewelry. I come across this jewelry often. I can attest to the widely held belief that this jewelry is quite common. I read in Fred Rezazadeh's book Costume Jewelry that several companies used this hallmark. Techniques/materials:  Figurals, enamel and Christmas pins. Back to top

Founder (s): Sandor Goldberger as the Sandor Goldberger Company New York ~ 1930s - 1972 -Sandor Goldberger began the company in the mid- to late 1930s. The company produced high quality rhinestone jewelry and beautiful life like enamel flower pins. Some of the jewelry was in the elaborately beaded style of Miriam Haskell. Sandor designed at least one piece for Fred A. Block.  See the book A Tribute to America by the Carla and Roberto Brunialti on page 165 and 167. These pages show and describe and Aztec Mask marked Fred A. Block that was designed by Sandor. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Enamel florals, high quality rhinestone pieces, sterling florals, antique gold plated jewelry, Miriam Haskell look faux pearl, bead and coral pieces. Back to top

Founder (s):  Ben Gartner as the Circle Jewelry Products- New York City, NY, USA ~ 1958 to possibly 1977, however this date is uncertain. The Goldette mark was first used in 1958. This company produced jewelry with designs that were influence by Victorian and Oriental looks. They also produced Native American look pieces. The necklaces often had several strands and elaborate clasps.  It is possible to find unsigned Goldette jewelry. You can usually tell if your piece was produced by this firm by looking at the clasps and the centerpieces. Techniques/materials: Gold- tone and silver- tone metal, elaborate clasps. sliding charm bracelets, enamel and colorful stone combinations. Back to top

Also Goldette NYC

Founder (s):  Stanley Hagler 1950s to present ~ New York, NY, USA -Stanley Hagler 1950s - 1996 / Mark and Ian 1996 - Present

Ian St. Gielar [1953- 2007] Sadly, Ian St. Gielar died of a heart attack on  March 21, 2007.  His wife Valentina will continue the business using the name "Ian Gielar Studio".

There is an ongoing controversy regarding jewelry made bearing the mark of Stanley Hagler since his death. I am trying to stay out of this while still providing accurate information. Mark Mercy and Ian St. Gielar currently both use variations on the Stanley Hagler mark. Stanley Hagler began producing costume jewelry in the 1950s. His jewelry was unique and well made; however it was not the colorful Hagler jewelry that came later.  It has often been confused with that of Miriam Haskell. The jewelry was hand wired and he was known for his choose of the highest quality materials. Mr. Hagler was also known for his beautiful Russian gold- plated findings and filigree backings. I have seen his work described as "wearable art" and the man himself described as the "Picasso of jewelry." If you see a piece of Stanley Hagler jewelry you would have to agree. Through the years, Mr. Hagler built up quite the clientele including many stars. He also won the Swarovski Design Award in 1968 for the first of his eleven times. Mark Mercy joined the company in 1979.  According to the Vintage Fashion and Costume Jewelry magazine, Mark took on the work habits of Mr. Hagler. In 1983 the company relocates to Florida. The hallmark changes from "Stanley Hagler" to "Stanley Hagler N.Y.C.". Ian joins the company in 1989 and becomes the chief designer. Mr. Hagler passes away in 1996.  Mark and Ian continue to make jewelry in the style of Hagler.  They both design for Hollywood stars, political powerhouses and the like. Techniques/materials:  Jewelry that like Haskell uses seed pearls and are hand wired. Hand-blown glass, the best Swarovski crystals, large pieces that are layered and very intricate. Bold colors, gilt metal and the very famous Russian gold plated filigree backings.

UPDATE: 2008, Feb 21 - I have had the opportunity to communicate with Valentina Ian St. Gielar's widow and she has been kind enough to provide me with some information about her late husband and the Hagler company.  Here are some excerpts of her communication:

Color (as well as volume) was brought into Hagler's jewelry by Ian, in 1989.

 Hagler never retired - he passed most (and later all) of his duties on Ian.

***"Hagler would never allow anybody to be a "Hagler's designer". He would never admit that Ian is actually designing his pieces. Same as, I bet, you don't know that many of earlier Hagler's designs were actually designed by Roselyn Kaplan of Baltimore (I have a Colorado newspaper with an article on this). Anyhow, Ian became an exception. There are letters and other documents" Back to top

This hallmark is one that was to be used for jewelry created by both Stanley Hagler and Robert DeMario. The partnership did not  happen but Hagler used some of the findings. It does seem Demario created some pieces for Hagler using yet another hallmark.  

Founder (s):  Hargo Jewelry Company - Dates unclear, actual name unclear, founders unclear. Well, we know the company existed, based upon the beautiful and imaginative jewelry showing the mark, however there really isn't much more information than that. The jewelry produced by this company is of high quality and workmanship. The Oriental themed pieces are highly sought after and command above average prices. Techniques/materials:  Genies, oriental themed figural pins, enameled pieces. Dragons and snake themes. Jewelry with faces. Some use of rhinestones and pearls. Back to top

Buyer Beware: Miriam Haskell jewelry is often duplicated. Several companies use similar techniques findings and stampings. When purchasing unsigned Haskell take special note of construction of the piece and the materials used. Frank Hess was a perfectionist so any sloppy wire work for example is a dead give away that the piece was re-stored badly or NOT Haskell.

Materials and techniques included: Glass beads, faux seed and baroque pearls, gilt metal, elaborate clasps, filigree backings/stampings and wired construction. Pins had stems that opened partially. Combination of different types of stones and materials. Haskell jewelry can be simplified down to a single design motif. This single motif would be embellished when creating some of the more elaborate jewels. If you are familiar with the Ready to Wear fashion concept of producing a several lines each season then you can understand how Haskell jewelry was produced. If not, think of a simple design motif embellished in different ways thus creating the several pieces or the "line".

Signature Look: Layered tapestry type beading [rhinestones, glass, faux pearls] and gold filigree.

From the unsigned years - Two pieces that show the wire work.  Back to top

Patent for clasp used starting in 1975 Click on the Images for a Larger View

 Courtesy of Greg at

www.charlesjoseph.ca

1940s Horseshoe Hallmark

An Early Stamping- Click Image for Larger View

Founder (s):  Jacques Hobé - Paris, France ~1887 * William Hobé - United States ~1927- 1995 I have read that the company is still in business [2006] and being run by sons of William Hobé. While this has been a company passed down to each male heir, I do not think the Hobé jewelry being produced today has any relationship to the Hobé jewelry created by the Hobé Cie jewelry company that the Hobé family began.  Jacques was William's father.  Jacques was a skilled craftsman who earned a reputation as a fine jeweler and it is said he became the royal jeweler to the court of France. William learned the trade from his father.  William immigrated to the United States and found work selling theatrical costumes in the early 1920s.  Soon he was producing costumes and costume jewelry for the Ziegfeld Follies. In 1927, William opens the American counterpart of his fathers company Hobé Cie jewelry company. in the early 1930s, Hobé begins to sell to retail outlets and is becoming a rising star in the theatrical and film world. Many orders came his way. Much like his peer Joseff, his jewelry looked authentic and historically accurate. This was a high profile position and led to many starlets and "super" models [in today's vernacular] wanting to wear his designs. Naturally this helped his retail sales. By the 1950s, Hobé was designing for some of the most famous leading ladies of the day, such as Bette Davis. In the 1960s, William's sons Donald and Robert begin running the company until the 1980s when a grandson named James takes over. The company was sold in 1999 or the very early 2000s although the mark is still in use. Most of the pieces produced by Hobe Cie were designed by the family During the 1030s through the 1970s.  Some of the pieces during this time frame were designed by Lou Vici who worked as a designer for the company. Beginning in the 1980s William's grandson takes over operation of the company. Techniques/materials:  High quality costume jewelry using top of the line materials such as platinum, semi-precious stones and vermeil. Jewelry that looked like the real thing and utilized some of the same construction techniques.  Reproductions of historical jewelry. Back to top

Founder (s): Joseph Chorbajian and others as the Hollywood Jewelry Manufacturing Co. Inc. ~ New York, NY ~ 1938 to about 1971 - Hollycraft jewelry has its own look. It is well made and very "rich" looking and ladylike. The stones are most often multi- colored pastel. They always have an abundance of sparkle and depth.  Some of the rhinestone pieces are accented with enamel. The Christmas pins are very popular. The jewelry was first marked in 1948 and in 1950 the company began dating their creations. The hallmarks often had an accompanying date. Made jewels for others. Signature Designs: Christmas jewelry and pastel multi- colored rhinestones. Elaborate settings. Back to top

and Hallmark with the Copyright Symbol

Founder (s): Abraham Lisker ~ 1935 Providence RI as the Providence Jewelry Company. Name changed later to Lisker and Lisker and finally to Jonette Jewelry Company-This company recently [2/2007] announced that it was closing. It had a second life in the past so maybe there is a third for this creator of whimsical costume jewelry.  It was during WWII that the company [as Lisker and Lisker] closed it's doors the first time. The restrictions the United States government placed on metal created shortages for most jewelers. The company re- opened after the war and Jonette Jewelry became the trademark.  The costume jewelry created here tends to be quirky, many done in pewter wash.  Also known for figural pins and Christmas pins. Back to top

Founder (s):  Eugene Joseff as Joseff of Hollywood 1935 - Present -Eugene Joseff was born in Chicago in 1905. As a young man [1923 to about 1926] he worked at an advertising agency before he moved to Hollywood in the late 1920s. Once out in Tinsel Town he pursued his real passion, costume jewelry. He soon became a designer and before long his pieces were showing up in movies and on the stars off the screen. The actresses even modeled the jewels in several publications. The jewelry seen in the movies was leased or rented to the studios. The great starlets seen wearing his jewelry created a buzz in the general public. Just like today, ladies watching the movies wanted to emulate the screen goddesses. 1937 or 1938 a retail line was introduced. Joseff copied his original pieces for this line. It is said that only one store per city could sell the jewels produced for the public. I guess he learned something about marketing in his prior career! Joseff is also credited with creating a type of gold- plating that did not produce as much glare under the lights as materials being used. It was a semi- matte Russian gold- tone finish. It became exceedingly popular. Joseff used this plating for his retail line as well. Joseff became known as the leading supplier of costume jewelry to the movie industry. Not bad for a self taught jewelry designer!  Joseff died in a tragic plane crash in 1948. His wife, Joan Castle Joseff carried on the business. NOTE: It is possible to find unsigned Joseff jewelry, however most pieces were signed.  Some of the older designs are being reissued by the Joseff Company for today's market. This is a practice that several companies follow. Eisenberg is one example. To see Joseff of Hollywood's current jewelry line and more visit their website,  http://joseffjewelry.com/index.php  Techniques/materials:  Authentic period designs. Visually strong pieces. Russian gold plated pieces. Crystals that were hand cut. Diverse themes and styles [animals to the zodiac] covering many periods of design. Plastic pieces including the famous five and six petal flowers. Back to top

Older Stamped Mark Joseff Hollywood Dates to the 1930s - 1940s

Founder (s): Kaufman & Ruderman, Inc. 1940s to perhaps the 1970s New York City, NY USA -No one seems to know for certain when this company closed. We do know that some fine-looking costume jewelry made with unique stones was produced. Some of the jewelry was unique and made with antique looking brass. The company used several hallmarks. All pieces in a set might not be stamped or marked. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Aurora borealis rhinestones, unique stones, antique look settings/backings. Victorian Revival jewelry. Back to top

Founder (s): Rice- Wiener ~ Rice- Wiener also manufactured fabulous costume jewelry for Barclay and McClelland Barclay. Best known for the "Thief of Bagdad" and "The Jungle Book  pieces. These opulent pieces are said to be inspired by the movies directed by Alexander Korda in the early 1940s. Alexander Korda was born in Hungry in 1863. His given name was Sandor Kellner. Jewelry signed "Korda" and "Thief of Bagdad" is rare. The jewelry is marked "Thief of Bagdad" as opposed to "...Baghdad". Many pieces of Korda jewelry have nothing to do with the movies. These pieces are also not prevalent on the market making this jewelry prized by collectors. Signature Designs/Techniques:  High quality, bold and elaborate jewelry. Back to top

This mark says "Alexander Korda"

Founder: Louis Kramer, New York, NY. 1943 to about 1979- Louis founded the costume jewelry company as Kramer Jewelry Creations. His two brothers joined the company that was to became known for quality and superior design. In the 50s Kramer manufactured or had pieces manufactured for Christian Dior. DeLizza and Elster manufactured some pieces for this company. Frank Hess, head designer at Miriam Haskell until 1960 also produced pieces for Kramer after leaving Haskell and dissolving his partnership with Haskell's nephew, Josef Morton.  These pieces were hallmarked Amourelle and they had that Haskell look. They date to 1963 and they are very rare.   Materials and techniques included: Netted rhinestones, artistic jewelry, superior quality, the 50s "Golden Look" and the 60s "Diamond Look". Back to top

Founder (s): Krementz and Lester families in 1866. -In the beginning the company produced cuff links, buttons and other men's accessories. Note that in the ad to the right, cuff links are being marketed along with their costume jewelry!  During the late 1800s, the company began to produce accessories for ladies. In the 1930s, Krementz began to produce women's jewelry. Krementz produced fine jewelry and jewelry that looked "real". The two families parted ways in 1936. During the 50s the company sold a large amount of costume jewelry. The costume jewelry business was sold in 1997. The fine jewelry company still exists. A company called Colibri purchased Krementz (costume jewelry). Colibri closed in 2009.  It is thought that the name was then purchased by an internet company.   Signature Designs and Techniques Used: Developed a technique of 14K and 10K gold plating  - a distinctive overlay process all their own. Delicate jewelry, white and yellow gold jewelry, use of leaves and roses. Back to top

Hallmarks are often on the pin rods and very small.

Diana is a line of jewelry produced by Krementz that sold in department stores such as Gimbels. Pieces with this hallmark are hard to find on the secondary market.

Earliest Hallmark: used during the early 1960s into the early 1970s. This hallmark is from an early bangle that also appears in Mr. Lane's Faking It book.

Kenneth Jay Lane ~ Newer

K.J.L. for Laguna

K.J.L. for Avon - Sometimes these pieces just say K.J.L. and could be confused with the oldest hallmark. Usually the presentation box will say for Avon

Founder (s): Blanche Viano~  Blanch- Ette Company ~ 1950s - 1980s -This company was similar to Sarah Coventry and Emmons  in the way that the jewelry was sold. The home party was the method of distribution. I have read that the Blanch- Ette Company produced the jewelry. To my eye the quality varied so much that I think some may have been produced by others.  The jewelry was of average to above average quality, sometimes utilizing rhinestones seen in better costume jewelry. The backings also utilized such techniques as riveting seen in better costume jewelry. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Traditional rhinestone jewelry, pretty colors and shapes.  Back to top

Founder (s): D. Lisner Company New York City ~ Early 1900s - Mid 1980s- This company produced a wide variety of costume jewelry during their over 55 years. The jewelry varied in use of materials, styles as well as quality. Taking a page out of the Coro business model, this company made jewelry for all price points. In fact, some of Lisner's jewelry looks a lot like mid- range Coro costume jewelry. Lisner also produced some very nice above average costume jewelry using high quality rhinestones stones and techniques. Their colorful sets with sculptured plastic stones, usually shaped like leaves, are very popular. Jewelry made with the oak shaped leaf is most sought after. Although some of the plastic sets were considered low end and still are, they do not lack quality! The company used several trademarks. A few included: Crystalia and Junior Prom. The first mark was "Lisner" in block letters first used in 1938. name "Lisner" [Long "L" and small "isner"] was first used in 1959. The Lisner name was no longer used on jewelry beginning in the late 1970s. Lisner purchased Richelieu [the pearl company] in the mid 1970s. The name was changed to Lisner- Richelieu and then sold in 1979. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Brightly colored plastic jewelry sets, AB rhinestone sets, molded glass, multi colored rhinestones. Back to top

Little Nemo

Founder (s): Benjamin Brier, Charles Brier and Samuel Magid as Little Nemo Manufacturing Company 1913- 1978 Provenience RI, USA- There is a bit of a mystery associated with the Little Nemo mark. First, Little Nemo is not the same company as Nemo. Or is it? Which company did the above mentioned men actually begin? What does the L/N stand for? Then there is the way the pieces were marked. LN, LN/25, LN/50 L/N and LN in a diamond.  What if anything do these designations mean? No one to date really knows, however it is thought that the LN mark is the earliest. The jewelry is high quality and spans many design styles. Some of the Little Nemo jewelry is geometric Deco in style while other designs are curvy and antique looking. Little Nemo made several patriotic pieces. Pot metal was used as well as antiqued gold and silver- tone settings.  Many pieces can be seen with brightly colored rhinestones and in interesting shapes. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Bright, high quality rhinestones, patriotic jewelry, lovely floral pins, pot metal settings as well as antiqued gold- tone and silver- tone settings. Back to top

Lustern

Founder [s]/Owner [s]: The Weinrich Brothers ~ Philadelphia PA ~ 1911 - Present- Weinrich Bros. Co. also had a branch in New York City. The Philadelphia firm was called H. Weinrich Company. This firm created great looking costume jewelry that was marked with several different hallmarks. The name "Marvella" was first used in 1911. In 1950 the name was changed to Marvella Pearls and changed again in the mid 1960s to Marvella, Inc.  In 1982 the firm was purchased by the Trifari. In the late 80s Crystal Brands Jewelry Group purchased Trifari. Monet was also a part of this group. Liz Claiborne purchased the entire group in 2000. Materials and techniques included: High quality faux pearls, multi-strand necklaces, faceted beads, beautiful clasps. Not all pieces in a set were signed.  Back to top

1946 - 1964 - Renoir was founded in Los Angeles, CA in 1946 by Jerry Fells [along with a partner and his brother- in- law] a native of Brooklyn NY, USA. At first the name of the company was Renoir of Hollywood. After a fire in 1948 that destroyed the building they were working in, the name was changed to Renoir of California. The jewelry created here was inspired by the early 20^th century Arts and Crafts movement copper designs. Jerry Fells trained at the Arts Students League and at the National Academy of Design in New York. Fells freelanced as an Art Director for departments stores before taking a permanent job at Gertz department store. Jerry Fells joined the Air Force where he was a fighter pilot during WWII. During the Korean War copper was scarce. The company began making some jewelry using copper and aluminum. This jewelry was not very popular.  In 1952, Fells opened another company, Matisse LTD. Here the designs were copper with colorful enameling.  The jewelry produced here had a "Modernist" look and was inspired by abstract and expressionists art. Matisse pieces were more expensive to create because of the use of enamel as you might suspect. During the 1950s a line of sterling silver was introduced that was more conservative then either of their copper lines. This jewelry bore the makers mark "Sauteur and Sterling".  In the 1960s yet another line was introduced, this time with a brushed gold plated finish. I have a piece marked "Sauteur" with this finish, however the mark changed to "Golden Glow" during this time. Materials and techniques included: Copper and enamel. Geometric and abstract forms. African inspired, flat and coiled wire work.  The cuff bracelets and the fringed necklaces command the highest prices in the vintage collectable market.  Sterling and gold plated designs made for a limited time during the 1950s and the 1960s.  Back to top

Matisse Renoir 1960s Gold Plated Jewelry Line Hallmark - Sauteur

Founder (s): Iradj Moini ~ Contemporary- Iranian born jewelry designer Iradj Moini has created extravagant runway pieces for Oscar de la Renta and other couture designers. His unique, handcrafted creations are one of a kind and he utilizes the highest- end imported stones. It is said that no two pieces are exactly alike. Celebrities are known to love his jewelry and it has been worn on Sex and the City. His jewelry has been featured at the Louvre. Sold at high end boutiques and department stores. Recent auctions at Doyle New York saw some phenomenal prices for this contemporary costume jewelry. Signature Designs/Techniques:  Imported glass stones, super sized brooches, drop dead gorgeous necklaces, one of a kind jewelry, figurals.  Back to top

Founder (s): Josef Morton Glasser and Frank Hess 1960s as Morton Hess-Both of these gentleman had a connection to Miriam Haskell. Frank Hess was her chief designer from 1926 until 1960 and Josef Morton was her nephew.  It is said the Josef also worked for his aunt for a brief while. After Frank Hess retired from Miriam Haskell he joined with Josef to begin Morton Hess. Together they produced fabulous costume jewelry with beautiful findings and stampings very much in the style of Miriam Haskell. Signature Designs:  High quality stampings, filigree backings, high quality crystals and beads.  Back to top

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